The food that we’ve been eating in Tanzania thus far is
definitely different from that of the states, but not so much of a culture
shock for those of us who hail from other Sub-Saharan African countries. The
food is really quite similar. I actually welcomed the more traditional
restaurants because they remind me more of the fare I have when I’m in the good
old StillH20 out (Mid-) West. While you can still get your typical fried
chicken and French fries—or, chips na kuku—you can also get a healthy helping
of ugali (or fufu, or whatever your country calls it) with a good sized portion
of mbogamboga (greens, not unlike njama jama) and roast (tomato-based beef
stew) to go with it.
Before arriving, I was incredibly concerned about the
availability and nutritional value of food. Especially since a certain
semi-trustworthy source of mine (*cough*, *cough* Mom) insisted that all
Tanzanian food was horribly cooked and irrevocably under-spiced. I was
expecting nothing more than a bowl of ugali and boiled, stringy beef. I was
pleasantly surprised to find that there is a plethora of choices of not only
traditional Tanzanian food, but also many types of international cuisine.
Classic Food Options:
Traditional Tanzanian
Restaurants.
At places like these you’re looking at no more than TZS 5000
(about $3.15, even on a day with bad exchange rates) for an (typically) enormous amount of food. You get to
choose from Ugali (corn fufu), wali (white rice), pilau (a seasoned rice)
chapatti (kind of like a savory, thin pancake), or chips (French fries. Again,
duh) to go with your side of beans or meats: kuku (chicken), maini (liver),
nyama (meat, this refers mostly to cow), samaki (fish), na kadhalika (and so on—name a meat, they’ve usually got it). You
usually end up with quite a few sides including salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, and
sometimes red onions), cabbage, or some sort of yellow, soupy liquid with an
odd-looking vegetable I have yet to identify.
All of these restaurants have the food pre-cooked and
waiting—which is fantastic when you get back from an 8-hour bus ride during
which you did not move except to protect your head from swinging suitcases and
large buttocks and bosoms—and depending on what you order, they won’t give you
any silverware.
At these restaurants my favorite meal tends to be mishikaki (seriously delicious kabobs)
with ugali and mbogamboga. While I’ll admit that I have not yet encountered a
Tanzanian cook that can hold an industrial-sized candle to my mom’s and aunts’
cooking, I’ll have to admit it’s all pretty good.
--EXPATS ONLY* BELOW
THIS LINE--
Chinese Restaurants
Considering I’ve never seen an Asian-looking person cooking
at any of these restaurants, they do have a reasonable semblance of Chinese
food. Prices range around TZS 10000 and up. In comparison to the mediocrity I’ve encountered
thus far, I'd prefer the Kong any day.
Indian Restaurants
Tanzania has a surprisingly large Indian population. I’ve
heard nothing but good things about the Indian food here. It tends to be very
authentic with prices hovering around TZS 12000
“American”/European
Restaurants
Restaurants like these have all of the things an expat could
dream of: salads (with real lettuce), grilled chicken breasts, pizza,
hamburgers, you name it. These places tend to be significantly pricier, and for
the cost, quantity, and quality that you’re receiving, just downright not worth
it. Prices are about TZS 15000 and
up. Places like these have waiters that will seat you; speak to you in English;
give you placemats, knives, forks, spoons, and napkins; and give you a bill in
a nice leather folder.
I saw a menu today that had a “Grilled Chicken Breast” for TZS
19500. After thinking about the 3 plates of food I received from Sweet Bite (a
local Tanzanian restaurant) that afternoon for TZS 3500, I couldn’t help but
laugh to myself. I can’t imagine why one would want to eat at one of these
places.
I suppose I’m particularly critical because I feel that I
came to Tanzania to experience Tanzania,
not an Americanized or Europeanized version of it.
And as we have been told constantly, everything tastes
better when you’re eating with your hands, anyway.
*Okay, okay—I am over-exaggerating a bit here. I’m sure that
some Tanzanians eat at these sorts of
places, too, it’s just that I have yet to see one…
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