tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46517362966481731882024-03-07T21:37:44.915-08:00Oh, the Places I Go: United KingdomAdventures around the globe...Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.comBlogger46125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-73382294955339782522012-08-07T09:39:00.000-07:002013-02-21T17:56:46.029-08:00Land of Poultry and Potatoes<br />
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The first time I came to England (9 years ago), I made
postcards with a nifty little computer program for crafts. It was basically a
glorified version of Microsoft Word and Paint, but that didn’t matter to me.
Anyway, on these post cards was just a clip art of a chicken drumstick next to
a baked potato with butter. All that I knew about England was that they ate a
lot of meat and potatoes, so I thought I’d play that up in my postcards to my
friends and family. Of course, I never used any of them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Of course, now I know quite a bit more about Great Britain,
especially after that trip and then after spending another week there. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I was obsessed with trying to get to London before the
Opening Ceremony of the Olympics. Having spent two months without television in
a country that seemed to care much more about the Eurocup than the
centuries-old world championship ,however, I was convinced it started on July
25<sup>th</sup>. Little did I know as I went round to baggage claim that they
were actually starting the night I got in—July 27<sup>th</sup>. And then I
cursed my folly for having booked a flight on what was likely one of London’s
most traffic-congested days <i>ever</i>.
Luckily, I only had to wait a few extra hours for my uncle (who had gotten
stuck in traffic) to come get me and take me back to his home in Farnborough.
Ironically enough, the ceremony started far too late (12 am fur the UK, but 2
am Tanzania time), and I ended up falling asleep after a couple of hours of
struggling to stay awake. I’m ashamed to say I haven’t yet watched more than
the brief recap. All you really need to see is the lighting of the torch,
right?<o:p></o:p></div>
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From there I moved on to Derbyshire (which a very <i>kind</i> Brit we happened upon in Musumo
informed me was pronounced “der-bee-sheer,” rather than, “der-bee-shy-er.”) to
visit another aunt, only narrowly missing a reception being held for the
Cameroonian Olympians that my Farnborough uncle had been invited to by the
Cameroonina ambassador (just my luck).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, I’ve been having a great time thus far, and have
been doing my best to live off of scones, Cadbury, meat pies, and fish and
chips, with the occasional Nando’s here or there. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-1271855804572832722012-07-30T06:50:00.000-07:002012-08-01T06:15:29.305-07:00This is a Test<br />
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We all had something—my colleagues and I, that is. For me it
was cloths, particularly <b><a href="http://www.indigoarts.com/gallery_art/obama_khanga.jpg" target="_blank">khanga</a></b> and <b><a href="http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1232/746973793_c231b0b967.jpg" target="_blank">vitenge</a></b>, but eventually the beautifully
printed <b><a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3311/3234983103_f29cb8755b_z.jpg" target="_blank">Maasai</a></b> cloths and a brief
stint as a shadowbox-phile. For one of my other teammates it was scarves. For
another Maasai knives of all shapes and sizes. Henna art for one, and <i>Hakuna Matata</i> t-shirts for another. We
were willing to pay almost any price for these cultural trinkets that had
caught our fancy. We understood the obsession that drove one another, though we
could not understand the objects that the others longed for. Why buy a scarf
when you could buy a cloth to make a dress out of? Or why buy a shirt when you
could impress your friends with concealed weaponry? <o:p></o:p></div>
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Novelty. It’s all about the novelty. There’s still some
novelty in visiting other countries, particularly ones in Africa. No matter how
hard we try, it seems like a vacation. I suppose anytime you know you’ll be
going home, it can’t seem like more than that. Even though we did a lot of
work, I couldn’t help thinking to myself, “But we’re going home.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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This summer was a test run. Last summer (10 weeks in rural
Costa Rica) was hard, and that was kind of discouraging. I’ve always known I
wanted to have a job that was health related and that was also international.
I’ve always had dreams of traveling the world and learning languages and
immersing myself in cultures, and I wanted to see just how real that dream was.
<i>Could</i> I actually do the things I
think I’ve always wanted to do? When the APHFTA opportunity sort of fell into
my lap, it seemed like the perfect way to try again: summer abroad, working for
an NGO, <i>and</i> it was health related and
in Africa. Maybe it was meant to be.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Yes, there is novelty in Africa. But that doesn’t matter. I
know that it is a continent on which I ought to spend more time. And I know
that I will. For the first time, I finally feel like I have the ability to
actually take ownership of my heritage. Yes, I could vacation in Africa,
absolutely. But I now know that I could live there. I understand so much more
about living abroad, I think. More about myself and what I want and what I can
do.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I left Tanzania. Last Friday, actually. I’ve moved on to my
next adventure in the land of tea and crumpets (England). We’ll see what
happens from here.<o:p></o:p></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-74448225360177691502012-07-25T19:16:00.002-07:002012-07-25T19:16:50.783-07:00That's How You Know<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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Early on we would always boast and joke about how well we
knew Tanzania. Back then we thought we were knowledgeable once we had a certain
number of taxi driver’s phone numbers, or began to recognize different areas of
town. Little did we know we still had a lot to learn. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you <i>really</i> want
to know if you know Tanzania, here’s how: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Food</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You don’t need a menu when you go to a
restaurant<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You don’t go to restaurants where the staff
speaks English<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You don’t need to order at a restaurant because
they already know you’ll be getting wali kuku and Fanta Passion.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You confidently stride into the kitchen and
gesture around so that your waiter or waitress can fully understand what you
want<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You know which place has the best kuku, where to
find the softest ugali, which place has the cheapest mishkaki, and where to get
the freshest fish.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You have to say a heartfelt, bittersweet goodbye
to the restaurant owner whose eatery you frequent every night.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Markets:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You know when you’re being cheated<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You get the price down to 1/10 of what they ask
for, and you know you’re still being cheated<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You get the price down from $130 to TZS 30000<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You are known at the market by nationality (the
girl from Cameroon, the China, the girls from Sri Lanka, etc.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You are known at the market by first name (this
is when you know you <i>really</i> need to
stop)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You go to a market one day by yourself and then
return later with some Tanzanians in the hopes you will get a better price, and
then realize that you’re better at haggling than they are and take over from
them to keep from getting severely cheated<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You rattle off the names of the scores of other
markets you’ve been to and their prices as part of your haggling strategy<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You are offended by the <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You have a personal tailor, wooden spoon seller,
maasai knife vendor, vitenge shop, scarf place, fruit vendor…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You (literally) chase down a street vendor after
he walks away from—and successively ignores—you for giving too low of a price.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Sights:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You avoid places with too many wazungu<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You see that there are price lists at the
entrance, but you insist on haggling anyway and succeed in getting an entrance
for less than half the listed price<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You’ve seen literally everything a town has to
offer<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You’ve seen over 60% of the sights in Lonely
Planet’s “Do Not Miss” list<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You’ve used every form of transportation (taxi,
daladala, bajaj, bodaboda, boat, plane, and safari jeep)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Stays</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Your priorities in a place are not running
water, hot water, or electricity, but toilet seats<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->The owners of your hotel start giving you gifts
(shout out to Econo Lodge!)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You start getting resident rates<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You find out you can ask for more toast at
breakfast<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You ask for more toast at breakfast<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You no longer turn on the A/C or use mosquito
nets<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Misc.:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You introduce yourself under a Tanzanianized
version of your name (usually this means leaving off ending “i”s, leaving out
any unnecessary “r”s, etc.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You warn wazungu against specific Barclays ATMs<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You can tell people where (not) to stay in
different cities<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You stop people from buying seriously overpriced
goods<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You know which beggar children will take money
and go and which will take it and then follow you around for the next 3 hours
asking for more<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You know which places are guaranteed to give
stomach issues the next day<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You walk home after your bajaj driver punctures
a tire<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You know which cities are best for Vodacom,
Airtel, Tigo, or Zantel<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But most of all, you known you really know Tanzania when you
tell stories of your travels and experiences to locals and they respond with
awe, amazement, and envy at having done and seen more than they have.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ll miss you, Tanzania.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-61198959088878164822012-07-24T06:40:00.002-07:002012-07-24T06:42:02.365-07:00Region Report: Mwanza and Mara<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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As the summer draws to a close and as we have visited more
and more places, it really seems like Dar is the only true city (perhaps, in
the Western sense of the term). The cities we visited—Mwanza (town), Sharati,
and Musoma—can only be categorized as quiet, quaint, and small. Though they all
border Lake Victoria, these are the types of towns that boast little to no
traffic (that is, if there are even cars), Sharati, despite it’s lack of
running water, was actually my favorite town of the three. It was definitely
the most peaceful and tranquil. Because of the proximity to the lake, they all
have a good amount of fresh fish, though they specialize in tilapia.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Food: <o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Mwanza: </i>There are
a few expat hotels up in the hills (Capri Point) such as <b>Tilapia Hotel</b> which boasts Tepanyaki-style Japanese food, but we
found <b>La Kairo</b> hotel nearer to the
center of town to be our best (non-home-cooked) meal of the week. Additionally,
there is a certain type of ugali unique to the Mwanza and Mara regions that is
made from a combination of millet and fermented cassava. I found this to be my
favorite because it reminded me a lot of Cameroonian gari fufu (same as ugali),
but with added fiber! That was my staple food when given the option<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Sharati</i>: In
Sharati, we ate only at the home of a friend of our supervisor’s. Thankfully,
this meant saving on food, but it was also delicious and had many more options
than we could find elsewhere. The only food we did buy in Sharati was a
delicious sandwich bag full of roasted meat from the market. If all else fails,
I’d say go for that, but I’d recommend finding the ugail.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Musoma</i>: We were
only in Musoma for one night, <i>but</i> the
breakfast served at our hotel (okay, let’s be real, it was a hostel) was
definitely the best we’ve had so far. We were able to sample all of Tanzanian’s
morning-time delicacies and we were not disappointed. I was particularly
impressed by the sweet potatoes (fried nearly whole). Much better than in the
States.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Markets:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<i>Mwanza: </i>I found
the Mwanza market scene to be rather startling. As I said before, Mwanza
clearly does not cater to tourists. We had a taxi driver drive us around town
and he showed us one corner of a street rather far from the city center that
had 1 souvenir shop. The market in the city center, however, was quite a
bombardment of sights and smells. Mwanza is right next to Lake Victoria, so the
market contained all sorts of fish in all sorts of places. Across from the
bananas, next to the vitenge, just after the mango. And it was incredibly and
horribly crowded. It definitely was not a place I would want to visit more than
once.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Sharati</i>: As small
as it was, even Sharati (well, the town next to it) boasted a special, Tuesday
evening market. Here we saw the usual large piles of clothes probably donated
by the Salvation Army, vitenge and khangas, and random assortments of odds,
ends, and power tools. This was also the place where we found the delicious
roasted meat. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Musoma</i>:
Unfortunately, we were not in Musoma long enough to find a market, but there
were tons of fruit and vegetable vendors around. Additionally, there are a lot
of sweet potatoes grown in this area, so many of the women roast sweet potatoes
that they sell. It’s so beautiful at night when you drive by all the fires.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Sights</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Besides Lake Victoria and Bismarck rock, there’s not really
much to see. We were actually quite surprised. We figured that the lake
considered to be the source of the Nile would have a few more attractions, but
we were quite disappointed. One really unique thing about the area, though are
the enormous, smooth rocks that can be found almost anywhere. There’s a
particular formation in Mwanza where the rocks are balanced precariously on one
another and have been for thousands of years. But that’s nature for you.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Stays</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
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While there are hotels, for me, stays in Mwanza and Mara
regions were categorized by hostels and lodges. They’re incredibly cheap (less
than $5 per night), and clean, and a lot of them actually had televisions—when
there was electricity, that is. Though the Mennonite hostel we stayed in in
Sharati didn’t have running water, it
was definitely my favorite. Despite the lack of electricity (at times) and the
running water (always), it was very distinctly western it’s style. Our bed even
had a quilt! Perhaps that’s a cheap reason for liking it, but hey, I’ve been
here a long time! I think I deserve a little taste of home!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Warning</b>: As I’ve
said, there’s not a whole lot to do in these places, but if you’re like my
colleagues and I, then you won’t mind. I really loved how quiet it was there
(besides the roar of the generator). It was so peaceful and relaxing, even with
doing all of our trainings and incredibly long bus rides from one town to
another.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-91615327747388408602012-07-17T02:31:00.000-07:002012-07-17T02:31:00.430-07:00Everything's Comin' Up...<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
While things have been going very well this summer, there is
a lot that goes unposted, as I’m sure you know. To say that everything is
perfect with this internship and my experience in Tanzania thus far, or that
there are no frustrations would be to gloss over quite a few of the things that
have happened while we have been here. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For instance, the lack of political correctness is often
incredibly irritating. Why people think that someone walking down the street
has to have their (assumed) ethnicity yelled at them is beyond me. We don’t
need people to speak seemingly Asian-sounding gibberish at our friends, and
neither do we need them to touch or pull our hair or touch our skin. Of course,
I think we can take the PC a little overboard in America, but I think that our
struggle to be as correct and tolerant as possible perhaps makes our skin
softer than it needs to be. While I am welcomed with open arms, even receiving
special deals from taxis and markets for the color of my skin, I still feel
anger and frustration on behalf of my teammates. To be constantly pointed out
as being different is never fun. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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We’ve taken to denouncing our American ties in whatever way
we can. While we do have two international students in our team, the other
three of us claim roots only from our parent’s countries. For the purposes of
avoiding being cheated, I am from Cameroon; one of my teammates is from Sri
Lanka, and the other Vietnam. It’s much more practical to live this way. While
most people can’t comprehend Asian countries other than India, China, or Japan,
I am welcomed with open arms as a fellow African. People often look to me to
act as translator when the language barrier between them and my colleagues
rises too high. Unfortunately, I usually can’t communicate much better than
they can.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Even though most of our trainees speak English, we still
find that sometimes the language barrier proves to be a challenge. Even more so
than that, however, is the technology barrier. Many of the people we train have
never used a computer before. While it is incredibly awesome to get to see
someone going from absolutely nothing to something, and to get be involved in
that journey, it’s can also be a pretty bumpy one. It’s so easy to take for
granted the intricacies of electronics. While I find scrolling to be an
entirely intuitive action, many of our trainees struggle with this aspect of
using a computer the most. My patience is tested every time I have to explain
that the up arrow is used to move the page up, that a drop down menu uses a
different scroll bar than the main page, or the 15<sup>th</sup> time I have to
remind a trainee the difference between the scrollbar and the up-down arrows.
And each time my patience is tested it reinforces my sense of gratitude that I<i> do</i> have the privilege of knowing these
things.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
And latrine toilets. In particular, they type that don't flush. Nope. All of them.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I don’t think this will be like my experience last year in
whichi always recount the bad things before mentioning any of the good ones,
but it has certainly had its tough moments. I’ve grown to prefer long skirts to pants, and
while I didn’t feel comfortable enough to go swimming in Zanzibar, it provided
some great conversation time along the beach. While wali nyama does get
repetitive day after day, I don’t think I’ll ever tire of the accompanying
mangos, bananas, pineapple, soursop, mangosteen, rambutan—the list goes on. I’m
not itching to be home as I thought I would be by the time I reached the 4-week
mark. I’m very content. Of course we’re not occupied every moment of every day,
or even the majority of everyday, sometimes. We never have Internet access on
par with what we’re used to in the states, if we have it at all. But I
appreciate the sun and screams of children and just having time to stop and
smell the hibiscus. <o:p></o:p></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-40032757499681751202012-07-16T13:31:00.001-07:002013-02-21T17:59:50.223-08:00What are you doing here?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Sharati is a town—or a village, really—in the Mara region.
It does not have electricity sometimes, but that’s okay. It does not have
running water, either, but that’s okay, too. It does not have taxies, so we
ride <i>bodaboda</i>—motorcycles—instead. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It is a peaceful town, with peaceful people. We are staying
at the Community Center, a small hotel run by the Menonite Church. The rooms
are small, but incredibly clean, and furnished in a style that reminds us very
much of home. There is a quilt on the bed, a bureau with a half-length mirror,
and wallpaper in the bathroom. While the faucets on the sink and shower appear
to be just for show, we are provided with 2 buckets of water—one for the
shower and the other for flushing the toilet—and a heating coil.<o:p></o:p></div>
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There is a special market on Mondays, where khangas are TZS
5000 each, and you can get a sandwich bag full of roasted meat for TZS 1000. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. Z, lives in Sharati. He is from Tanzania, and he
completed his bachelors, MD, and residency from Dartmouth, Howard, and
Stanford, respectively. He manages to maintain a fully stocked hospital despite
the lack of reliable electricity and running water. His library is full of
books with subjects ranging from surgery, to children’s rhymes, all in English.
His children went to Tufts and continue living in America, yet Dr. Z…lives in
Sharati. <o:p></o:p></div>
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When we entered the dining room the first morning of our
stay at the Menonite community center, we were the only other people in there
besides a dark-haired woman and her clearly mixed children. She was speaking
some language that we sounded very much—but not enough—like German. After a few
minutes of speculation, our Supervisor from the APHFTA office in Mwanza just
out right asked her. It turned out she and her Swiss-German speaking children
were from Switzerland, and her husband was Tanzanian. They had just built a
house in Sharati and she was awaiting his return from a safari into Mwanza for
furniture for their new home.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At the special Monday Market, we saw a big group of the
worst kind of wazungu—and by this I mean the tall, blond-haired, fair-skinned
type that screams foreigner. It runs out that they are from America and are
working with one of the clinics we will be visiting tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I always wonder what brings a person to a place. I don’t
know exactly what it means to <i>belong</i>,
but I know what it looks like when you don’t. perhaps I think of myself and my
team as an exception. We have a reason to be here. But other people? Hardly.
Some of the places we’ve visited, I can’t imagine <i>anyone</i> wanting to come to for a random holiday. Sometimes I see
frantic tourists in front of the John Harvard statue and I wonder the same
thing. It’s not that these places are not beautiful or relaxing or historical,
but sometimes there’s just not really too much there. But that’s okay, I guess.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The world is a very small place and it will only continue to
get smaller. Perhaps I take these places for granted—Harvard Yard included.
Perhaps one day I may see and not wonder: <i>How
in the world did you end up here?<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-55982667871424201692012-07-13T23:45:00.003-07:002012-07-13T23:45:07.809-07:00Winds of Change<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i>Soulprint</i> is a
book by Mark Batterson. It was given to me by my pastor a few months ago. I
ought to have read it, but as all things I ought to have read, I didn’t—until
just a few weeks ago. I thought it was something I would be able to read all
the way through, but the first chapter was packed with so much for me to think
about that I decided to devote an entire week to each chapter.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This book has really got me thinking. As I try to find my
“divine destiny,” it’s so easy to get lost in all I’m surrounded with for the
majority of the time while I’m at home or at school. I feel like it’s summers
like this that help me to screw my head back on right and think straight. I
remember reading through the WorldTeach Costa Rica pre-departure information
last year. They emphasized pretty seriously that I should not go into my 10
weeks in Costa Rica with the intention of it being a time of self-exploration
or self-discovery. Now, of course, I find this laughable. Of course I taught
and loved my students as well as I could, but I can’t imagine how a summer in
rural Costa Rica with no Internet and nothing to do after 1pm could have been
anything <i>but</i> a summer for
self-exploration and –discovery. So, while I knew I would be doing a lot of
work this summer, I knew that it would also be a time for the fog of stress,
anxiety, responsibilities—everything, really—to clear.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Batterson says that one’s soulprint is made up of a few
experiences—certainly fewer than you’d think—that shape it. They’re points
along the way. Some big, some small. Like connect-the-dots, they are the
backbone of a shape or a picture that is great. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was interviewing the CEO of APHFTA with one of my
colleagues, when I was made incredibly aware of something. Both of us were
struggling premeds—and by that I mean people struggling to figure out whether
or not they should actually be premed—so we thought we would ask the doctor if
he had always know he should have been a doctor. The simple answer was no, but
he instead of giving the simple answer, he weaved for us a story embroidered
with hope, diligence, and vision. He gave us the connect-the-dot story of how
he became a doctor, starting with his missionary father moving from Tanzania to
various parts of East Africa, going over his brief stint as a 17-yr old
business man, and ending with how he came to be sitting in his leather computer
chair that day. It was fascinating. It truly struck a chord within me. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I think I have a new vision of what things are supposed to
see. Something as simple as a new understanding of hard work and doing what you
are supposed to do when and where you are supposed to do it. But that’s not
even quite it. It’s a lot more intangible than that. I am really, really
looking forward to next school year, and I can feel a change coming along. I
know that a lot of things have to change. They’re going to be really, really
big changes, but they’re also going to be great ones. I’m going to have to make quite a few big
decisions, but it’s all a part of a bigger outline.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">That, I’m sure of.</span><!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-79572871899075906232012-07-13T08:07:00.002-07:002012-07-13T09:11:58.609-07:00Welcome to Mwanza!<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are in Mwanza now, and while it is home to Lake Victoria,
it is clear that it is not meant to be a tourist destination. It would certainly
not make it to the top of my list. I will save further details for the Mwanza
City Report.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As soon as we arrived in town, we began searching for
accommodations. There are quite a few “hotels” and lodges very close to the
APHFTA office, so we decided to begin our search there. As we looked, we found
that double rooms were rather hard to come by. Apparently, in this regionpeople
of the same sex are <i>not</i> allowed to stay in a room together*.
Thinking we must have misunderstood the first time, we made sure that this was
the case, and indeed it was. While the reasoning behind this (likely
homophobia) was not explained to us, we figured we would have to accept it.
After shopping around at a few places, we decided on SunCity Hotel, which made
an exception to the same-sex rule for us.<br />
<br />
Our hotel costs my roommate and I $2 each/night. Yes, that is USD**. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were told there was only one self-contained room—a term
used to indicate the presence of a bathroom in the room—and that the only other
available room had a shared hall-bathroom complete with <a href="http://kivafellows.files.wordpress.com/2010/02/sewerage.jpg">latrine</a>-toilets***.
The staff did not speak a word of English, so all of this was conveyed to us
through our new Supervisor who was kind enough to help us figure out our living
situation. There was also no electricity there, nor at any of the other lodges
we had visited. (Power outages are commonplace in this area of Mwanza, so the
staff was unfazed, and perhaps even confused by our questions of when the power
would come back on.) Despite all of these problems, however, the rooms were
incredibly clean, each had a color television, and it was next door to the
APHFTA office. After paying for our rooms and putting our luggage away, we went
to the office and then out to dinner.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a delicious meal of roasted tilapia and plantains, we
returned to the hotel. To our delight, the electricity was on. We had been
speculating amongst ourselves the best way to shower in pitch-black darkness
without falling into the adjoining latrine-toilet, but luckily our conjectures
did not have come to fruition. The generator was roaring loudly and all was
well.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As my roommate and I walked back to our non-self-contained
room, a rather large middle-aged man came out of the bathroom wearing only a
towel. Shocked, horrified, and scandalized, I fumbled for the key, as we
struggled to keep from bursting out with laughter. Now that we were privy (no
pun intended) to the utter awkwardness of our bathroom situation, we decided
that we would shower in our other teammate's room to avoid walking around the
sole hallway in a state of undress. We also realized that our window overlooked
a table at the bar and restaurant next door, and that the loud music almost managed
to drown out the noise of the generator.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After realizing we had been given only one towel, I
attempted to ask the sole staff member for an extra one. Up until this point,
I’d been able to scrape by communicating with what little Kiswahili I
have, mixed with a good amount of English and an even better amount of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Physical_Response">TPR</a>. Having
been reduced to two tactics now that the staff was monolingual, I found myself
having a much harder time. The main issue was that I knew <i>she</i> could
understand <i>me</i>, but <i>I</i> could not understand <i>her</i>.
Luckily we happened upon another tenant who could speak English. After about
twenty minutes of back and forth, it was explained to us that only one towel
was allowed per room. Because we were sharing a room (which was not technically
allowed) we were only permitted one towel. I could not rent an extra towel, but
would have to pay the price of another room (TZS 8000) if I wanted to be able
to dry myself after my shower.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I walked away, incredulous and defeated. After all this, we
found out that there<i>were</i> in fact, more self-contained rooms. To
our surprise, our Boss had moved into the hotel while we were at dinner.
Not really sure how that miscommunication went down, considering it
happened between two Kiswahili-speaking people...<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, I wouldn’t say that up until now we’d been experiencing
an illegitimate, watered-down, or fake version of Africa, but what we were
experiencing in Mwanza was something entirely different from what we had seen
thus far. Perhaps more real. Perhaps not. It was <i>certainly</i> less-Westerner-friendly.
I feel that I may have a lot to learn from Mwanza. We’ll see what I have to say
one week from now.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Oh, and one thing I’ve already learned that I’ll never
forget: If you turn on the hot water switch while the generator is running, all
the electricity on the entire street will go out.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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*We assume that the pricier, more touristy hotels would
probably allow same-sex rooming arrangements, but all of those would have been
well out of our price range.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
**The moral of the story: You get what you pay for.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
***If you know of any possible way a latrine-toilet is in <i>any</i> way
practical than a toilet bowl, I beseech you to do so. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-12139628571606837982012-07-10T22:27:00.001-07:002012-07-10T22:27:58.516-07:00Summertime...<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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Yesterday, the first of the interns made her way back to her
home country of Sri Lanka. Just a few hours ago another intern left to go back
to the Phillipines.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Watching my two colleagues leave really made me aware of the
mortality of this summer. For so long it seemed endless and boundless, but I’ve
been reminded now that it’s very quickly drawing to a close. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>And then there were
three</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On Thursday we’ll be leaving for our last scheduled training
in the Mwanza region. We’ll be training personnel from seven different clinics,
so we certainly won’t be lacking things to keep us busy. Laden with 5 net books
and two desktops (complete with printers and scanners), it will certainly be
the largest training I’ve been through for this summer, but I’m looking forward
to going out with a bang.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-66926609552648027512012-07-09T08:20:00.000-07:002012-07-09T08:20:57.853-07:00City Report: Stonetown*, Zanzibar<div class="MsoNormal">
After spending 5 days on the beautiful (understating here)
island of Zanzibar (a.k.a. Spice Islands), all of us decided that we would
spend our (respective) honeymoons there—it’s just that incredible. The people
on the island are actually incredibly conservative, and you’ll see most women
in full hijab despite the piercing heat, although the narrow corridors of the
immaculately historical Stonetown provide enough shade to escape the harshest
parts of the day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Home to the birthplace of Swahili, a mixture of Arabic,
Bantu, and some English and Portuguese, most of the inhabitants of Zanzbarare
of mixed-race heritage, allowing for an rather diverse-looking population. It’s
main income comes from tourism though—you can find tourists there
year-round—and there are shops on every street, as well as many gorgeous and
unique hotels.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Food</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are a plethora of restaurants on the island, with many
different international cuisines to choose from—we even found a restaurant
specializing in Belgian foods! However, if you’re on a budget, I’d stay away
from them. All of them. Only in the inner areas of Stonetown will you be able
to find reasonably priced meals at a restaurant (TZS 2000-8000), but don’t
worry, the food is still pretty delicious. <b>Luukman’s
</b>was one of our favorite day spots to go to. I got lunch there for TZS 2500.
There’s also an unnamed place—to our knowledge—just down the street that has
great prices as well, when Luukman’s is too overrun by tourists. But for the
King of dinners, you’ll have to go to <b>Foridhani
Gardens</b>. As the sun begins to set this beautiful Garden area is turned into
a street food fair complete with (mostly) fresh seafood, Zanzibar pizzas (super
delicious and really cheap), fresh sugarcane juice, and the like. I’ve
developed a mantra recently that unless there is a price tag or a sign
declaring fixed prices, everything is negotiable, and the same goes for
Forodhani. Within the first night I developed a lasting relationship with one
of the seafood vendors, procuring two large crabs, salad, and chapatti for my
friend and I for only TZS 9000 (from the starting price of TZS 36000). It might
be hard to budge sometimes, but if you’re persistent (or from Africa), you’ll
be able to bring the prices down.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Notice</i>: The
seafood at Forodhani’s is not <i>always</i>
as fresh as the nice boys behind the smorgasbord would allow you to think. The
cheaper things tend to come and go pretty quickly, but there was one lobster
that stayed on the table almost every night we were there. You should also be
aware that everything is partially cooked for ease of throwing it on the grill
to reheat and get to your plate in a reasonable amount of time. You can always
have them throw something back on the burner in case you’re unsatisfied with
its doneness.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Market</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is actually only one market near Stonetown, but it
contains a fish sections, fruits and vegetables section, and an enormous spices
section. Everyone will give you different prices for the same products, but
before even worrying about that, you should make sure to look at freshness.
Particularly with the spices, you may get a great deal on old, tasteless wares
if you’re not careful. For packaged spices, make sure that the plastic is still
completely translucent. They start to get opaque once they’ve been sitting
around for too long. The food market is also catty-corner to a pretty
comprehensive fabric market with beautiful “silk” (not silk) scarves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Sights</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Just like in Arusha, almost everyone is a tour guide or
knows of one. You may want to shop around a bit, as the prices can be vastly
different for the very same tours. I definitely recommend going on the spice
tour. You get to see, taste, and smell a lot of fresh spices and fruits and
it’s awesome. A tour of Stonetown is
also an absolute <i>must</i>. It’s such a
beautiful city with such incredible history. You’ll even get to see the home of
Freddy Mercury!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Stays</b>: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Manch Lodge </b>or <b>Jambo Hotel</b> are great places to stay.
They’re more hostel style, so you pay $15/night and have to share a few
bathrooms, but the breakfast they serve is delicious!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Notice</i>: It is
highly unlikely that you’ll ever be able to find these places without taking
any wrong turns in the maze-like streets of Stonetown. Make sure to take note
of surrounding landmarks so that you can ask locals.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Warning</b>: People
in Zanzibar are incredibly kind—we <i>wazungu</i>
are their livelihood after all—but I would be careful with some of the men and
boys. I don’t want to make any blanket statements, but I encountered quite a
few creepers. There was one guy (~40 years old) who worked at our hotel who
kept trying to get me to go on a “walk”
with him. If you’re an unmarried female, beware! If you’re married, however,
most men will leave you alone.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
All in all, Zanzibar is an incredible place. It was the
first place in which we encountered Americans or people our age. I also feel
like it’s one of those places where you have to spend at least a month or so
there to feel satisfied that you actually know the place. There’s <i>so</i> much more to the island than
Stonetown (it’s an archipelago!), and all of it—particularly the beaches—is breathtaking.
We extended our stay by an extra two days because we loved it so much. I also
met a pastor who went there on a short-term missions trip with his family and
loved it so much that they came back with a one-way ticket.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Be careful if you ever go to Zanzibar—you might never want
to leave!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">*I think Stonetown may actually be more of a neighborhood than a city, but whatever.</span></div>
<br />Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-60954855883475956772012-07-02T03:13:00.001-07:002012-07-02T04:46:45.996-07:00Wazungu<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It passes from person to person like an echo.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Wazungu</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Foreigners</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If it’s not our bags clutched tlightly at our sides, or our
backpacks perched in front like bellies pregnant with gadgets, valuables, and
stacks of shillings, its our hair, natural, worn down, uncoverd. If its not
our hair it’s our clothing, girls in pants or skirts that hit mid-shin instead
of ankle. If it’s not our clothing it’s our skin. Or our eyes. Or our accents.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Wazuuuunguuuu!</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Children scream it like laughter, women whisper it like
gossip, men gnash it with teeth like sharks. It’s a brand. <i>Wazungu</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like hawks, we are descended upon. Newspaper men flock to
the windows of our taxis, quickly flipping to the English section and pressing
it onto the glass. Street vendors call out to us as we walk along the street. <i>Karibuni! Looking is free!</i> Young men and
boys, permanently stationed on various street corners call out <i>Mambo! </i>and<i> Vipi!</i> like a test. We murmur our <i>Poa</i>s and <i>Safi</i>s in response as necessary. We simply ignore those who call out
<i>China </i>to our Vietnamese and Filipino
teammates and the various Kiswahili names for Indians to our Sri Lankan ones.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here, it is as if the observation of our foreignness is as
necessary to point out as it is to breathe or eat. Heads turn as we walk down
the street. Children poke, men eye. And always the whispers. <i>Wazungu</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While on safari, we would constantly call out to one another
as we spotted animals. <i>Zebra! Hippos over
there! Baby elephant! </i>It never got old. In many places, we feel as if we
are the safari animals, moving through the savannah of the streets, providing
them with spectacle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s not so much irritating as it is intriguing. In
America—in <i>Harvard Yard</i> even, we
receive thousands of tourists everyday. I have yet to go out of my way to even
glance over at one as I walk to my classes or back to my room. I do not poke
them. I do not grab at them as they walk down the cobblestone sidewalks. I do
not try to guess their nationality and then yell it at them, or attempt to
speak to them in a language I think might be theirs, yet here, these things
happen to us and our fellow tourists everyday.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In America we love privacy and personal space, and we would
never dream of breaching another’s. Here, no such boundaries are upheld and
while it used to disturb us, it gets less and less startling everyday. <o:p></o:p></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-59591441487735370482012-06-30T10:15:00.000-07:002012-06-30T10:15:50.223-07:00“Please put your lifejackets away!”<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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“We do <i>not</i> need
our lifejackets anymore,” a voice commanded over the intercom.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<i>Lifejackets?</i>
Everyone was in a panic at the sound of that word. We watched as one of the
flight attendants carried back a jacket that had been inflated by a
trigger-happy unattended minor. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Who said anything
about life jackets?</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The South African woman sitting next to me and I looked at
one another. I knew her expression mirrored mine. A combination of confusion
and fear.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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We had stopped in Zanzibar for a few hours because of a
problem with our second engine. When we returned to the plane, the engine that
had had problems was now running. They told us they didn’t want to turn it off
in case anything happened again.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Shortly after takeoff, I noticed that everyone on the right
side of the plane started looking around, pointing, and exclaiming. I glanced
at a window across the aisle from me and noticed that one of the propellers had
stopped turning. One of the South African woman’s daughters began exclaiming in
Afrikaans. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The air-conditioning had stopped working so the flight
attendants were going up and down the aisles handing out cups of water to both
cool and calm us. Their faces and demeanors were the picture of serenity. They
hadn’t begun panicking, so I told myself that that meant I didn’t need to worry
either. I also thought that could be a clever trick they were playing to keep
chaos from ensuing. At any rate, I tried to convince myself that if we were in
any real danger we would turn around. We had taken off only moments earlier.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Are we going to turn around?” The South African woman
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“We are going to fly and land with one engine,” the
flight attendant responded, smiling calmly. It was a short flight—only 20
minutes from Zanzibar—to Dar, so I figured we could make it. I could tell that
the plane was tipping slightly to the left, possibly in an attempt to keep the
plane from losing control. Before we knew it, the captain announced that we
would be landing—the only thing he’d said since the engine had gone out.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The descent was rather smooth, but once we touched down
to the ground the plane began shaking from side to side, lights flickering and
everything. I gripped my armrests as tightly as I could. Not a thought was
going through my mind other than a classic African hymn I had grown up hearing
since childhood. <i>My God is a good God,
yes He is!</i> One woman’s hands flew up, one on the roof of the plane, one in
the air praying fiercely. We began to slow until we eventually rolled to a
smooth stop. After a momentary pause, all of the passengers broke into
applause.<o:p></o:p></div>
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In all of that, the thing I found most odd was the lack
of compensatory customer service. In America we would have been given all kinds
of vouchers and air credits to keep us happy, whereas here, the pilot gave us a
simple apology for our late arrival and “rough” flight and then sent us on our
way. Strangely, that was the thing I found most jarring in that whole situation…<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-70183542276761749592012-06-29T06:00:00.000-07:002012-06-29T06:00:55.679-07:00In Transit<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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I have finally learned to work the Tanzanian airline system. Well...sort of.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Having already paid TZS 70000 to bring both of my suitcases
on the flight to Arusha, I decided to try to trade one of my suitcases for a
carry-on-sized one from my colleagues. That way, I could check one suitcase to
Dar and carry on my backpack and their suitcase. Foolproof, right?<o:p></o:p></div>
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When I arrived at the check-in counter, I found that my bag
was slightly overweight. Not a big deal, I could just rearrange a few things or
pay the extra TZS 5000/kilo. Once I got all of that nearly sorted out, the
woman behind the counter looked at my carry-on. <o:p></o:p></div>
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“That’s too big.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Oof</i>. I was hoping
to avoid this struggle. I’d had my friend take out enough stuff such that the
carry-on didn’t stick out at all. I knew it <i>would</i>
fit in the overhead bin, because it was smaller than my backpack. I didn’t want
to bring this last point to her attention, however.<o:p></o:p></div>
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After trying to reassure her that it would fit, while also
trying to cover up the size of my bulging backpack, she had me weigh it. Her
coworkers stationed at other counters, as well as the shuttle driver began to
crowd around where she was standing. This was probably the most action they’d
seen all day. They all gasped a unison, <i>Ayyahhh!</i>
when my carry-on came in at 12 kilos.<o:p></o:p></div>
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“The weight limit is 7 kilos for a carry-on.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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I had been traveling alone for the past 3 years with all
sorts of overweight luggage, over-sized carry-ons and the like. That TZS 70000
I’d had to pay had been a blow to my pride and I refused to let it happen
again. I dropped to my knees. No, no in defeat, but in full on offense—I was
going to rearrange like a master. I pulled out the small duffle bag that I had
purchased for just this sort of situation and began puling things out of the
carry-on. If I was going to have to pay an excess luggage fee, I was going to
make sure I at least had as much in something I <i>could</i> put on the plane as possible.<o:p></o:p></div>
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They all eyed the duffel bag like spectators watching en
extra handful of passengers attempting to squeeze into an already overstuffed
Daladala. Everyone knew it couldn’t be good. Weight: 11 kilos. I sighed,
beginning to accept defeat. Having been satisfied to see the Daladala overturn
and begin to burn, the shuttle driver began making his way back to his station.
The others followed suit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“So what should I do?” I asked, “in America you can have two
carry-ons—one to put above and one to put under your seat. Can I not do that?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
She thought for a moment. She looked left, she looked right.
“Put a few things into there,” she said, pointing at the carry-on. I
reluctantly moved my friend’s GRE books—the heaviest load in the suitcase—back
into the suitcase. With each book, I watched the total weight go up by one
kilo. “Okay, when you get on the plane, put the bag under your seat and put
your backpack on the top.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>She was letting me go... free</i>. I looked at the scale, and then at her. “Is there nothing else?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You can go.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Asante sana, dada! Asante sana,” I just managed to breathe out
before gathering up all of my things and scampering off before she could change
her mind.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So now here I sit in Zanzibar—yes, Zanzibar—reminiscing on this
happy moment while I wait for our plane to be fixed. Don’t worry, just your
typical case of deplaning for engine problems. I’ll still arrive hours before
my friends and it’s nice to have the time to sit and reflect. It’s also a bit
of foreshadowing of what Zanzibar will be like for our trip next week!<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-31645777260407663202012-06-28T22:37:00.000-07:002012-06-28T23:55:36.040-07:00City Report: Arusha<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
We have been in Arusha for a total of eleven days and this
morning we are leaving for Dar. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I know it’s a little early to say as I readily approach the
end of my third week in Tanzania, but I think Arusha might be my favorite Town
in Tanzania. Because of its high altitude, Arusha is <i>significantly</i> cooler than any of the seaside towns we’ve been to
thus far. You might want a medium jacket until about 10 or 11 am when the sun
melts away the cloud cover. Arusha is also an incredibly clean city. Aside from
the occasional corncob, you’re not going to find too much trash on the ground,
which is perfectly fine with me. Fewer rats. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As the hub city for safaris, tourists—<i>wazungu</i>—are not hard to find, although
they tend to stay in nicer parts of town than we do. We only encounter them as
we walk briskly past places you could easily mistake for Europe or America such
as Africafe or the Blue Heron Pizza Garden—a garden surrounded by a high wall
where they sell pizza and <i>salads</i>—or
Shoprite. The first time I passed Africafe, I couldn’t help but laugh. It was
filled with people whose skin was the opposite color of the coffee they were
drinking, and they were paying close to Starbucks prices for it and the food
they were eating. Perhaps they knew that they could get these things for less
than one-fourth the price even a few doors down, but it was much more likely
that we didn’t. We seasoned Arushans, on the other hand, <i>did</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a few days of wasting thousands of shillings on taxi
drives, we began to venture out of our safety net by walking around the town.
It helped us get to know it a lot more quickly, and saved us quite a bit of
money. We also got to know quite a few people and places as we passed them each
day on our way from one side of town to the other.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Food</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Can I hear three cheers for Sweet Bite? Very aptly name,
this joint with the typical Tanzanian fare was one of our favorites. Enormous
portions and dirt-cheap prices. What more could you ask for? While Arusha does
have <i>tons</i> of expat-friendly
restaurants—I’ve even seen a sushi restaurant—we preferred to frequent the types of places
where the waiters don't speak much English. Restaurants such as Kulan’s,
Mehboob’s BBQ (yeah, we know), The (2G) Restaurant, and the like. At these
sorts of places you can never go wrong with Wali Ro(a)st (the “a” is optional)
which costs around TZS 2500-3500 ($1.50-2.25).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Notice</i>: There are
also places nearer to the outskirts of town that are a bit cheaper than this.
They’ll usually have enormous banners that you can see quite easily from the
street announcing their prices. This is most likely a lie and they will tell
you that the promotion is over, but the food is usually good enough.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also, Mehboob’s has 4 different types of grilled chicken. Do
not be fooled: they are all exactly the same. And what they give you doesn’t
taste like any of the descriptions, but it’s still good!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Markets: </b>Mount
Meru Market (aka the Maasai Marktet, it’s near the clocktower roundabout) is
fantastic. However, if you don’t have basic Kiswahili skills or are white they
will rip you off immensely. I actually made quite a few friends in that market
(I went there far too often) and even received two marriage proposals. They
know me there as the Girl from Cameroon. There is also someone selling
something at every street corner and a few places in between.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
(Hoorah for new
categories!)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Sights: </b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mt. Meru is a mountain near Arusha that always stands
proudly in the distance. Unlike Kili at this time of year, you can see Mt. Meru
most days, and it’s a rather incredible sight at that. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Arusha has a fantastic Cultural Tourism Program (which is
just near Africafe so you can go there right after your TZS 5000 muffin!) which
provides area tour excursions ranging from a half-day to four days to places
such as maasai villages, waterfalls, Mt. Meru, local schools, camel safaris,
and the like. The best part about these is that the profits go back to the
community. While they tend to be slightly overpriced (be careful because they <i>will</i> cheat you), they’re still a great,
relatively inexpensive way to spend your time.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Stays:</b> Hotel
Flamingo is a dream. We’re currently getting the resident rate (TZS 35000 for a
double) because we had our Supervisor help us out, but even without the savings
would be worth it. The hotel is incredibly clean, the water is (almost) always
hot, and the staff will even cut and peel your mangos for you!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Notice</i>: The girl
at the front desk smiles and laughs a lot. You may assume she’s laughing at you
and your inability to open the door or work the remote, but she’s really just
like that. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also, our Boss says Hotel Miami Beach is not as good and
more expensive, so don’t be fooled by the price.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Warning</b>: I’ve
heard that Arusha is supposed to be a very dangerous city. We haven’t
encountered any mishaps (thank God), but I’ve heard quite a few stories.
Everyone knows someone who knows someone—that sort of thing.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is a particularly rude scarf vendor one street down
from Sweet Bite who will most likely refuse to give you good prices and won’t
sell you a Pashmina for any less than TZS 8000, even if you want to buy five.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
Always make sure to add up the bill yourself. Some restaurants will add on random fees just because they assume we'll just go ahead and pay. Which you probably will. Let's just go ahead and call it a <i>wazungu</i> tax.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We all adore Arusha and will miss it immensely when we go. We
extended our stay here for an extra day because we love it that much. A day in
Arusha vs. a day in Dar? When the opportunity presented itself it was a
no-brainer…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We have a running joke among us that when we have too many
taxi drivers phone numbers, or begin to know our way around the place then
that’s when we know it’s the time to go, but with Arusha we were absolutely
content with befriending the Mango Guy down the street or the duffle bag
vendors on the street corner or the man who tries to sell us paintings <i>every single day</i>. It was the closest
we’ve felt, I think, to being safe and comfortable. The closest we’ve come to
something we could want to call <i>home</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-84423423080088619692012-06-27T12:22:00.000-07:002012-06-27T12:32:33.329-07:00Nants Ingonyama Bagithi, Baba<div class="MsoNormal">
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These are the opening lines to the “Circle of Life” from the
Lion King. Did you know this actually means, “Here comes a lion, father”? And
that it’s actually in Zulu as opposed to Kiswahili (even though the Lion King
takes place in the Serengeti in Tanzania where Kiswahili is spoken)?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Or maybe I’m the only one who was never obsessed enough with
the Lion King to look these things up when I was seven.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyway, we’re back from safari and I’m now almost
embarrassed for how reluctant I was to go when the trip was first planned at
the beginning of the summer. I initially thought that the day safari my family had
taken in Zimbabwe in ’99 was enough to last me a lifetime. I don’t think I’ve
ever been so wrong. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ll just start right in:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Tarangire</i></b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After stopping by Shoprite—an expat’s dream of a grocery
store and the beginning place for every safari company, apparently—for our
water, we began the 3-hour drive to Tarangire National Park. Our tent was set
up for us at the campsite (an enclosure in the savannah surrounded by a rather
barbaric-looking wall of rocks) near a particularly ferocious pile of some sort
of termite-looking insect which we were assured would, “go down into the ground
at night,” we were on our way. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Almost as soon as we began betting on what would be our
first animal to see, we began seeing elephants and wildebeests. We were all so
excited, heads eagerly popping out of the top of the safari Land Rover, cameras
poised in preparation for all of the awesome shots we were about to get.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So the way a safari works is you basically just drive
through the park and stop along the way to take pictures. Okay, duh, I know,
but you can have your guide stop for as long as you like while you take scores
of shots of the same herd of zebra in succession. You also have a personal cook
who makes you breakfast, lunch, and dinner, which is great.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Call me ridiculous, but I found it so odd that all of these
different types of animals lived in such harmony with one another. I never
would have expected zebra to share grazing space and live so symbiotically with
the wildebeest, for example. Perhaps we have something to learn from them
(#clichésallday).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Highlights</i>: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feasting Lion: One of the things we noticed on safari is
that the more jeeps stopped in one place has an exact correlation to how cool
the sight is. For instance, during our first experience with halted jeeps we
got to see a male lion eating a zebra. Considering seeing lions is not very
common in Tarangire, we were incredibly lucky to see such a sight, even though
it was rather far away.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zebra: We must have seen hundreds of them on the first day.
They’re really fascinating creatures. I never got tired of seeing their
strangely-striped coats. I also had this odd fixation on wanting to ride one.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lunch: It was our first Wali-Kuku-less meal in quite some
time, so it was particularly pleasant. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>The Park</i>: This was
my second favorite of the parks. Tarangire is mainly savannah, and the terrain
is absolutely gorgeous. Zebra, giraffe, and elephants are in abundance here. Watch
out for tsetse flies. They cause African Sleeping Sickness. This was the only
park in which we encountered an enormous amount of them. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Manyara</i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lake Manyara National Park is near a town aptly named Mto wa
Mbu—River of Mosquitoes, though we were assured they did not carry malaria in
this region. This park is particularly famous for its bird population. Almost
entirely forested, it was quite a surprise that Manyara was so different from Tarangire.
I wasn’t quite sure what I had expected, but I didn’t expect such vast terrain
differences between the two places. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Highlights</i>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Okay, here I have to admit that I was very bad during this
trip, and slept almost the entire way through. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I know. Please feel free to gasp and <i>tisk</i> as needed. The thing about Manyara is that it offered a lot of
the same animals as Tarangire. After a particularly restless night—I’ve found
that I can sleep anywhere <i>but </i>tents—and
an entire day of safari-ing the day before—and maybe a tsetse fly bite or two—I
just couldn’t manage to keep myself awake.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I will admit that the lake was quite a beautiful sight and
it gave us our first flamingo and hippo sightings! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While in the Manyara area, however, you can pay to visit a
Maasai village, which we did, although that excursion deserves a blog post all
its own…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>The </i>Park: Most
guide books will tell you that you do not want to end your safari with Lake
Manyara National Park. While the park promises tree lions, it is rather
difficult to see any animals, as the trees provide them with much more cover
with which to hide from the scary, freakish safari jeeps. If you can’t visit
one anywhere else, the Maasai village visit would definitely make it worth it,
though.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i>Ngorongoro Crater</i></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After two days of straight driving and animal watching, I
was entirely unconvinced that the third and final day was going to be any
better than the previous two. Most people we had heard from said that
Ngorongoro was their favorite of the parks, but I couldn’t quite comprehend
what that meant since, up until then, they had all been rather similar. I had even less hope when we arrived at the
park at around 8:30 am and the entrance was almost entirely obscured by fog.
And when I say fog, I mean the kind where you can’t see a foot in front of your
face. After driving for about 20 minutes our guide stopped briefly at the
“Viewpoint” which we couldn’t see. Because of the fog. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As we drove farther and farther and the fog burned away in
the wake of the rising sun and we could finally see the crater my mouth dropped
open just wide enough for me to put my foot in. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have never seen anything so beautiful anywhere in my
entire life.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite the altitude-induced cold and the blowing wind, we
rode the rest of the way down standing out of the top of the jeep so as not to
miss a second of the beauty. I can’t even begin to describe it, but I’ll give
it a shot.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The park is surrounded by mountains on all sides with an
exceptionally interesting cloud cover that hugs the top of the mountains and
looks ready to roll over the side. The terrain was an incredible mix of rain
forest, savannah, and lakes that provided the most beautiful colors and the
most diverse mix of animals we had seen thus far.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Highlights</i>: We got
to see all the best animals up close at Ngorngoro<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Flamingos: You can spot their brightly-feathered bodies from
kilometers away. What starts out as a reddish haze in the distance is only more
spectacular up close.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hippos: Are such odd creatures. So fat and cute yet so dangerous.
You never really want to see these from <i>too</i>
close up.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lions: Our second massive safari jeep pileup resulted in yet
another lion sighting, but this time the lions were only a few feet away. There
was a lioness and a lion and though the lion was sleeping, we all just stood
there watching in awe. Once the lion woke up (and tried to mount the lioness
until she attacked him) you could hear the cameras clicking like mad,
overpowered only by the collective groan as he knelt down and went back to
sleep.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>The Park</i>: I’ve
never had such an overwhelming revelation of the beauty of creation before.
This park was by far my favorite, and the only one I don’t think I could ever
tire of seeing. Seeing Ngorongoro easily overtook my disappointment at not
getting to see the famous Serengeti. Leaving the park, we all stood up and
watched the retreating terrain as we climbed higher and higher out of the
crater. Silently, we reflected on the inexplicable beauty of what we had just
seen and each confirmed that we would have to come back again to see this.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b>Tips for Safari-goers</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Bring binoculars. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Bring a zoom lens, extra batteries, and your
camera charger (there are outlets in the jeep)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Don’t wear white<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Don’t wear shorts (you’ll look like an idiot)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Don’t wear safari gear (see above)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Don’t eat in the car (it will attract animals)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Don’t make loud noises when you are stopped near
elephants (they will attack you)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->You can, in fact, take showers at the camp sites
(although a Wet Ones bath may work just as well)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->The tea, hot chocolate, coffee, and popcorn they
give you when you sit down to dinner is, indeed, free (although soda and
alcoholic drinks are not)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Wear a hat or cover your hair (trust me)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I will reiterate the guidebooks here and tell you not to end
with Manyara. I’d say if you’re going, you might want to start from there. That
way, things will only get better. Or, you might just skip it all together and
just do the Tarangire-Ngorongoro-Serengeti circuit. But whatever floats your
boat. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, I know that all any safari-goer really wants is to see
a lion (don’t try to deny it, it’s true), but if you ever have the chance to go
on a safari, just do it. There’s nothing like waiting with bated breath as you
wait for a herd of elephants to cross the road. Nothing like watching a group
of zebras riding off into the sunset. Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing like
watching sleeping lions or hunting lions or eating lions, but the raw magnificence
of the untainted terrain is really something I think everyone should experience
in their lifetime.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-35107590436482043932012-06-25T09:56:00.000-07:002012-06-27T10:55:29.413-07:00Best of Both Worlds<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, we’re all having
an incredible time doing this internship with APHFTA. The fact that I’m having
such a good time is utterly laughable now because, as those of you who are
close to me know, I spent an entire anxiety-ridden semester worrying about the
internship—the lack of concrete details, living situations, project creation,
etc. I’d been warned by past Sandbox interns that there was a severe lack of
organization and details before arrival in Tanzania—and sometimes even for a
while afterward—but that it would be an incredible, one-of-a-kind work
experience that would be unforgettable.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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For me, what makes this experience so unique is the way it
so gracefully maneuvers the delicate balance between independence and
supervision and work and travel. We spent our first few weeks under the
tutelage of our “boss” a former Harvard student who graduated in 2010 and
designed the program we’ve been teaching to the doctors, nurses, and
receptionists. Since he is only a few years older than we are, it very much has
the feel of a typical Harvard student-run organization—where we are expected to
make a lot of decisions on our own and get the job done with little assistance
from older, more experienced people such as professors or teaching fellows—but
with the backing of an entire national organization to help us when we are in
need.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Last week when we split off into our two teams (one to Mbulu
and the other to Tanga), I was in the Tanga group under the supervision of an
APHFTA coordinator who sort of became our Tanzanian mother, and to whom we also
referred as Madam President. She was absolutely <i>incredible</i>. She
always made sure we were safe and taken care of, and always did her best to
make sure we got to do whatever we wanted. My teammates and I were convinced
that her mobile phone doubled as a genie. As soon as we mentioned that we
wanted to see something such as Amboni caves or go on a camel safari, within
five minutes of whipping out her phone, she had procured us an incredible deal,
usually less than half the price of the ones we found on our own. Staying with
her gave us the confidence to be able to maneuver various Tanzanian cities and
towns on our own, and—perhaps most importantly—she instilled in us the iron
fist and stone face needed to be a good haggler. Time after time at the market
in Tanga we'd run back to her thinking we'd gotten a good deal, only for her to
go back with us and have them cut the price by another TZS 5000 and sometimes
more.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Right now, however, we’re on our own. Our boss has gone to
India for a two-week vacation, our supervisor has gone back to her hometown in
Moshi, and we’re able to continue doing what we’re doing with complete
competence. It’s fun to see each day pass as we get more and more familiar with
the town we are in. We walk a lot more these days, now that we feel comfortable
enough with the town to not need the safety of taxis. We try different
restaurants (although Sweet Bite will always be our second home—after Hotel
Flamingo). We have conversations with strangers using what Kiswahili we know
and learning more in the process. We buy fruit on the streets and engage with
school children passing by. I'd like to think that we are truly experiencing
Tanzania.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Each night when we gather into one of our hotel rooms to
hangout or watch a movie, the conversation usually touches on how lucky we are
to be here, and what an experience we’re getting. We’re getting the best of a
summer of travel as well as work experience. The combination of these two
things is relatively hard to come by in an undergraduate summer experience. We
have already spent quite a bit of time in 3 different cities, and have 4 left.
Rather than staying in one town doing repetitive jobs as many of our friends
are doing back home and even internationally, we get to see and experience so
much of Tanzania as we work. I often wonder incredulously how I got lucky
enough to be able to see such beautiful towns and cities while also teaching
and learning so much.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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We’re really getting to know places and people and I truly
believe that this is a blessing. We’re growing in independence and street
smarts and people skills and so many other things and yet this summer
experience is such a gift to us.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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And even with all of this we are given time to ourselves. By
the time this posts I’ll be on a three-day safari to the Ngorongoro, Manyara,
and Tarangire parks, and later in the summer we are taking a weekend trip to
Zanzibar.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I’m wondering if it’s ever going to be possible to top this…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-45888395814770966432012-06-23T05:51:00.000-07:002012-06-23T05:51:00.116-07:00Maini, Nyama, na Samaki, Oh my!<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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The food that we’ve been eating in Tanzania thus far is
definitely different from that of the states, but not so much of a culture
shock for those of us who hail from other Sub-Saharan African countries. The
food is really quite similar. I actually welcomed the more traditional
restaurants because they remind me more of the fare I have when I’m in the good
old StillH20 out (Mid-) West. While you can still get your typical fried
chicken and French fries—or, chips na kuku—you can also get a healthy helping
of ugali (or fufu, or whatever your country calls it) with a good sized portion
of mbogamboga (greens, not unlike njama jama) and roast (tomato-based beef
stew) to go with it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Before arriving, I was incredibly concerned about the
availability and nutritional value of food. Especially since a certain
semi-trustworthy source of mine (*cough*, *cough* Mom) insisted that all
Tanzanian food was horribly cooked and irrevocably under-spiced. I was
expecting nothing more than a bowl of ugali and boiled, stringy beef. I was
pleasantly surprised to find that there is a plethora of choices of not only
traditional Tanzanian food, but also many types of international cuisine.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Classic Food Options</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Traditional Tanzanian
Restaurants.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At places like these you’re looking at no more than TZS 5000
(about $3.15, even on a day with bad exchange rates) for an (typically) <i>enormous </i>amount of food. You get to
choose from Ugali (corn fufu), wali (white rice), pilau (a seasoned rice)
chapatti (kind of like a savory, thin pancake), or chips (French fries. Again,
duh) to go with your side of beans or meats: kuku (chicken), maini (liver),
nyama (meat, this refers mostly to cow), samaki (fish), <i>na kadhalika </i>(and so on—name a meat, they’ve usually got it). You
usually end up with quite a few sides including salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, and
sometimes red onions), cabbage, or some sort of yellow, soupy liquid with an
odd-looking vegetable I have yet to identify.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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All of these restaurants have the food pre-cooked and
waiting—which is fantastic when you get back from an 8-hour bus ride during
which you did not move except to protect your head from swinging suitcases and
large buttocks and bosoms—and depending on what you order, they won’t give you
any silverware.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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At these restaurants my favorite meal tends to be <i>mishikaki</i> (seriously delicious kabobs)
with ugali and mbogamboga. While I’ll admit that I have not yet encountered a
Tanzanian cook that can hold an industrial-sized candle to my mom’s and aunts’
cooking, I’ll have to admit it’s all pretty good. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
--EXPATS ONLY* BELOW
THIS LINE--<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Chinese Restaurants</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Considering I’ve never seen an Asian-looking person cooking
at any of these restaurants, they do have a reasonable semblance of Chinese
food. Prices range around TZS 10000 and up. In comparison to the mediocrity I’ve encountered
thus far, I'd prefer the Kong any day.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Indian Restaurants</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tanzania has a surprisingly large Indian population. I’ve
heard nothing but good things about the Indian food here. It tends to be very
authentic with prices hovering around TZS 12000<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>“American”/European
Restaurants</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Restaurants like these have all of the things an expat could
dream of: salads (with real lettuce), grilled chicken breasts, pizza,
hamburgers, you name it. These places tend to be significantly pricier, and for
the cost, quantity, and quality that you’re receiving, just downright <i>not</i> <i>worth</i>
<i>it</i>. Prices are about TZS 15000 and
up. Places like these have waiters that will seat you; speak to you in English;
give you placemats, knives, forks, spoons, and napkins; and give you a bill in
a nice leather folder. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I saw a menu today that had a “Grilled Chicken Breast” for TZS
19500. After thinking about the 3 plates of food I received from Sweet Bite (a
local Tanzanian restaurant) that afternoon for TZS 3500, I couldn’t help but
laugh to myself. I can’t imagine why one would want to eat at one of these
places. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I suppose I’m particularly critical because I feel that I
came to Tanzania to experience <i>Tanzania</i>,
not an Americanized or Europeanized version of it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And as we have been told constantly, everything tastes
better when you’re eating with your hands, anyway. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">*Okay, okay—I am over-exaggerating a bit here. I’m sure that
<i>some</i> Tanzanians eat at these sorts of
places, too, it’s just that I have yet to see one…</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-60418675734132328772012-06-20T07:55:00.001-07:002012-06-20T08:08:15.526-07:00City Report: Tanga<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
So we’ve been in the town of Tanga (which means “farm” in
Kiswahili) for five days now. Thus far, we’ve really enjoyed Tanga. We’ve
completed two days of training, visited Hamboni Caves and Galanos hot springs,
deployed the desktops and netbooks, been to the market, purchased ebony
statuettes, visited a dairy farm, eaten a Tanzanian-style buffet (including cow
tongue and intestines)—basically, we’ve done it all. It’s a very small city
close to the sea, rather warm during the daytime, and it’s very quiet. Most
people ride bikes so the streets aren’t very congested. All-in-all a nice place
to bring up your kids! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Food</b>:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jahuri Garden (aka Fruit Plate Garden): it has an awesome
fast food place with delicious (and cheap) Tanzanian-style fast food (grilled
chicken, plantains, chips—French fries, duh—various types of kabobs, <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Notice</i>: While sea
food is surprisingly hard to find, they Mkonge hotel makes a <i>mean</i> pork and chips, though don’t go
there if you’re too hungry because the wait time might kill you—but it’s well
worth it!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Markets</b>: All of
them are great. They have a small fabric market as well as one for fruit and
souvenirs. They have a few stands that sell beautiful handmade, beaded sandals
and personalized bracelets. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Warning</b>: While
Tanga seems to be a great place to stay, the mosquitos there carry the virus
that causes elephantitis. In particular, the genital kind. Please don’t google
image this.<o:p></o:p></div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-73495444484918109862012-06-19T08:34:00.000-07:002012-06-19T08:34:15.010-07:00So…<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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What exactly am I doing here?<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Well, I’m a Sandbox intern with the Association of Private
Health Facilities in Tanzania, or APHFTA. They call us Sandbox interns because
they believe that this internship provides us with an opportunity to create our
own experience and use our own imaginations and skills to the best of our
ability. Our set goal is to launch a new program targeted and improving ante-
and post-natal care to APFHTA’s partnering clinics that will replace the
current paper-based record keeping system. After 2-3 days of training, we give
each clinic either a netbook or a desktop computer to begin the new process. In
addition to this we have the option to create our own project that will assist
APHFTA in some way. This year we’re working on a documentary and implementing a
newsletter into the APHFTA system.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I’ve been through one full training session so far, and it’s
so very interesting. Our pupils—the doctors, nurses, and receptionists—vary
immensely in their computer skills. Some are completely adept at using
computers and need only to be taken to the login page to begin figuring out how
to work, while others have never used a computer before, and have to be taught
the most basic of basics—from how to turn on a computer, to how to scroll and click
using a track pad. One thing that’s common among all of our <i>wanafunzi</i> is that they’re all incredibly
excited to be there. They all <i>want</i> to
learn, and they are all incredibly excited about the new system and what it
will mean for their clinics and for themselves. After our first training
sessions a few people said a few words in thanks. They were so thankful and
appreciative that it brought tears to my eyes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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There are not many things you can do in your typical
international, “global health” type internship. We get to see things and do
things that some American college or grad students would beg for the
opportunity to do. And the fact that we get to teach and make a difference in
these people lives, <i>and</i> see immediate
and lasting results (usually the clinics begin using the system and teaching
the program to other works immediately), is such a unique experience. It’s one
that I already know I’ll look back on with appreciation and pride.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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It’s only been one week for me, but I’m so ready for more. <o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-18727170076440954832012-06-16T09:42:00.000-07:002012-06-16T09:42:00.564-07:00Fifty, Nifty<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Now, I may have blogged about this last summer, but as I
travel more extensively (thanks, Harvard!), I’m beginning to notice a trend: as
soon as we (Americans) leave the country, we begin referring to it as “The
States.” Now, I don’t know why or how, but it seems to work on an on-off switch
that is flicked almost as soon as we embark upon foreign soils. We say it when
speaking to other temporary expats, as well as to the natives. Every time it
slips off my tongue, I make a semi-conscious mental note of how weird it is,
knowing full well that I will say it again the next time. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Hmm…<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-66171285784959437702012-06-14T09:42:00.000-07:002012-06-14T09:42:05.784-07:00Sub-Saharan Hospitality<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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I always tell my friends that I have family everywhere—all
over the US and the globe. Aunties, uncles, and cousins up the wazoo, I always
say. And when I tell my friends this, the next question tends to be, “Mom’s
side or Dad’s?” This is where things get tricky. I’ve been raised to understand
that everyone close to your family <i>is</i>
family. Growing up we called everyone “Aunty” or “Uncle” as terms of respect
and endearment. My Malasian baby sitters were known as “Aunty Gwen,” and “Aunty
Shameeta,” my mom’s besties were “Aunty Elaine Turner” and “Aunty Elaine
Bartos” (the last names added as needed), “Uncle Chris,” and his wife, “Aunty
Chimpeng,” and so on. Now, I knew of course, that many of these people were, in
fact, not actually related to us—I may have been young, but I knew that I
probably wasn’t actually related to my mom’s Malasian students—but for many of
the Cameroonian “Aunties” and “Uncles,” it would be many years before I
understood we shared no kinship ties. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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It was probably around high school that I realized this is
not a particularly normal tradition. I had one group of friends who insisted I
mention, “Real Uncle,” or “Not-Real Uncle,” etc., when talking about family. To
this day I often give my mom and dad a hard time for having blurred family lines,
and make them give me a complete lineage breakdown of any new “Aunty” or
“Uncle” that we meet.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As I spend more time here, I’m realizing that this loose—or
I suppose you could say, strong—sense of an all-inclusive family is a very
African thing. On the streets of Tanzania we all call one another kaka
(brother) or dada (sister), from the taxi driver picking us up at our hotel to
the little girl selling corn on the side of the road. It’s a very kind
tradition and I’m quickly getting used to it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Now, in the vain of me having family everywhere, my second
day in Dar I stayed with Aunty Martha. How do I know Martha? She is the sister
of the wife (Vicky) of one of my parents’ PhD students (Baraka) from Rolla.
Having heard from my parents that I was coming to Tanzania, Vicky quickly
contacted her family and asked them to host me while I was there, which they
quickly and happily agreed to do. That’s another thing I realized wasn’t quite
normal to many of my friends in the States. Africans will move mountains to
welcome one another with even the slightest of connections. It’s incredible,
it’s generous, it’s awesome. It’s something that my parents do and something
that I know I will do in the future.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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As soon as I arrived at Martha’s house I was chided for not
having called her sooner and for spending a night in a hotel (which is
something family <i>never</i> does). She
immediately gave me the remote control, showed me where my room was, made sure
I was fed very well, introduced me to her two (super cute!) children, and told
me that when I returned to Dar I needed to call her as soon as I arrived.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I also have an (Not-Real) Uncle I’ll be staying with for a
few days when we get back to Arusha in a few weeks.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Now, <i>that’s</i> what I
call Sub-Saharan hospitality<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-85854207146564070702012-06-12T18:28:00.001-07:002012-06-27T10:55:50.755-07:00Karibu!<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Karibu! Welcome to the second installment of my summer blog.
Rather than starting a new one, I figured I’d just add on toand change the name
of the old. Oh, the Places I go! The H is for harvard (and the purposes of
finding a unique URL...). I think I’ll use this to document all the places
Harvard will take me during my four years there. I’m keeping my fingers crossed
for quite a few more.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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After spending two and a half weeks with the ravishing
Radcliffe Pitches on our summer tour to San Diego, Los Angeles, San Francisco,
Seattle, Vancouver, B.C., and Whistler, B.C. in which we stayed at 5-star
hotels and homes, discovered the beauty of dim-sum, redwood trees and tandem
bicycling, I find myself in beautiful Tanzania. I’d been preparing
myself—mentally, mostly—for my internship with the Association of Private
Health Facilities in Tanzania (APHFTA) since I was notified that my application
had been selected in mid-December. I’d taken a semester of Kiswahili tutorial
in preparation—although, I couldn’t learn too much with only two hours of class
per week, but it at least gave me a jumping off point, applied for grants,
spoken extensively with last year’s interns, worked Dorm Crew for some extra
cash—even though I swore last year that I would never do it again, and now here
I am. It wasn’t until after the nearly 27 hours of flight from Vancouver to Dar
es Salaam that it really hit me: Eight weeks in Tanzania… While
the very distinct smell of a particular type of humidity wafted over me as I
waited in line for my visa, I wondered incredulously to my self: What am I
doing here? I was about to spend two months traveling around a country whose
language I barely spoke, training nurses in various clinics which I hardly felt
qualified to do, and all alone—at times—or with a group of students who knew
hardly more than I. I immediately fast-forwarded to the end of the summer,
imagining a new me—a me with life skills and street smarts, a me that knew
Swahili and could travel around a country by herself without clutching her
purse timidly to her side, a me that had survived this, because I know that I
will.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">It doesn’t always pour, but when it pours:</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>No one leaves their houses</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>The electricity goes out a few times</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">quebradas</i> (which supply our water) overflow with mud, meaning our water becomes extremely silty if not completely red </div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Afterward you can hear the rushing of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">rio</i> from our house, though it’s probably over half a mile down-mountain</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>We get in a new channel from Panama</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Speaking of Panama, the volunteer from San Cayetano and I went to go see Harry Potter (there was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">no </i>line, though we went to see it the day it came out. I was utterly stunned) a few weeks ago, and while we were waiting in line, I was told that I look very much like a Panamanian. Now, this needs some back-story:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Many Costa Ricans are unaware (let’s put it that way) that people of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">African heritage</i> (to be utterly PC) live in the United States. On the day we were traveling to our site I went to the grocery store to buy a phone card. After much confusion—the person who sells phone cards was on their breakfast break and no one knew when they would be returning—I sat waiting for the phone card-vendor to return. While we were waiting, one of the cashiers, probably realizing I needed a card to call the States, who had been helping me, asked if I could speak English. I was utterly baffled and took it as a compliment to my Spanish. I realized later, though that this was most definitely not the case. Many (most?) Costa Ricans truly believe that the United States is populated <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">only</i> by Caucasians. Which means that anytime someone inquires where I may be from, their guesses are usually: Nicaragua, Limón (a Costa Rican province on the Caribbean side which is home to many black Costa Ricans who—at some point or another in their ancestry—emigrated from the Caribbean Islands), or Panama, all Central American places home to darker-skinned Spanish speakers. One of our field staff told us a story about how when she was a volunteer, her host family had asked her if there were black people in America. It would appear that they just don’t know. But anyway, back to waiting in line.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We had been speaking with a woman who had gone to a bilingual school in Costa Rica so, though she had never lived in the States, she spoke English fluently. As a result, we were asking her a lot of questions trying to figure out various things that Costa Ricans did that we had yet to understand (as stated in previous posts, asking our host families usually produced the answer: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Es así</i>”: “That’s just the way it is”). One of the things that had been pressing on our minds after being in the country for almost 6 weeks (and after a few more instances of being asked if we could speak English) was how we were believed to be everything but American. “You speak very good Spanish,” she’d told us. “Most of the Americans we encounter here don’t speak Spanish at all.” After thinking for the slightest moment she added, “And, you look <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">just</i> like a Panamanian,” she then turned to the other volunteer who was also black, “and you look <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">just </i>like you could be from Limón.” She then turned to the other woman (who didn’t speak English) who we had also been talking to and asked her if she agreed. As we’d expected, the woman exclaimed her agreement in the usual Costa Rican way.</div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-37236897148785504412011-08-04T09:26:00.000-07:002011-08-04T09:26:01.231-07:00Queque<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal">Despite the overabundance of bananas (works cut down piles of them every day), I was surprised at their lack of incorporation into food. Occasionally they are eaten fried (which don’t taste nearly as good as fried plantains), but other than that, they are pretty much only eaten in their original form. A few weeks ago I figured I would take it upon myself to enlighten my host mom to the deliciousness of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pan de banano</i>. When I first explained it to her she was absolutely enthralled. A bread made out of bananas was something she just couldn’t fathom (in retrospect, I probably shouldn’t have translated it literally, but called it a cake—or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">queque</i> as they call it in Costa Rica—instead).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“You have to make that for us before you leave!” she had told me and I readily accepted. Despite the fact that we don’t have an (electric) oven, I figured I’d try to find someone who did but my host mom wouldn’t hear of it. We have a woodstove in the back of the house and that is what I would be using to make my banana bread.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Finally, yesterday I was able to gather all the ingredients (for some unknown reason we didn’t have bananas for a long time) so I made us some banana bread. My host dad struck up the fire in the stove and pretty much did all of the real hard work—all I had to do was make the batter. I had no idea how it would turn out considering I didn’t know if the temperature was at the allotted 375<sup>o</sup> or if the flames would give it steady heat all the way through, but I figured, people made banana bread before electricity. Long story short, when it looked about ready (much faster than I had anticipated), my host dad removed it from the fire and brought it into the house. After doing the knife test (came out perfectly clean, to my surprise), it was ready—and time to dig in.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Now, I don’t know if it’s just because it’s been 10-weeks of living of rice and beans in small-town Costa Rica, but I’d have to say that that banana bread was probably one of the most delicious things I’ve ever made. Wondering if it was maybe just the shock of having something that reminded me so much of home, I helped myself to a second slice. And I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">still</i> thought it was the most delicious thing I’ve ever made. My host family thought so, too. By this morning the entire loaf was gone. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There’s currently another batch in the oven.</div>Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651736296648173188.post-9683126954215635552011-08-03T09:37:00.000-07:002011-08-03T09:37:30.779-07:00SentimentalI'm starting to get really sentimental. Especially because the Nina is sick so I don't get to say goodbye to half of my students because they won't be coming in for the rest of the week. It makes me very sad. :(Kyrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17708816667632715382noreply@blogger.com0